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62 Int'l J.L. & Mgmt. 1 (2020)

handle is hein.journals/ijlm62 and id is 1 raw text is: The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available on Emerald Insight at:
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Mechanisms of labour
exploitation: the case of Pakistan
Muhammad Arslan
Bang College of Business, KIMEP University, Almaty, Kazakhstan
Abstract
Purpose - The issue of exploitative labour practices has been a persistent and recurring problem in the
textile and garment industry. Despite increased media, policy and practitioners attention the evidence base
remains unexplored. The International Labour Organization (ILO) has acknowledged the presence of labour
exploitation in global supply chains because of private sectors' employment practices. The purpose of this
study is to apprehend views of multilevel stakeholders to explore the nature and driving mechanisms of
exploitation.
Design/methodology/approach - Semi-structured interviews were conducted with 76 respondents
from 25 factories from 3 cities of Pakistan i.e. Faisalabad, Lahore and Gujranwala. Convenient and snowball
sampling techniques were used because of the complexity of research settings. Transcribed data was
analysed with the help of NVivo.
Findings - Drawing on qualitative evidence, the study reveals that workers experience a range of
exploitation at the workplace, which is unlikely to fall within the scope of severe exploitation. The findings
reveal that three types of exploitation exist in Pakistan's textile and garment industry such as financial,
physiological and psychological. Power inequality is the foundation and a fundamental cause of the
endurance of exploitation. The study found three mechanisms that facilitate the endurance of exploitation, i.e.
distance, profit and oppression.
Research limitations/implications - The study contributes to supply chain literature by exemplifying
power inequality. It is crucial for the government to step up efforts to stipulate a minimum wage rate in the
textile and garment industry to alleviate labour exploitation. The findings provide motivation for policy and
decision-makers to implement incremental changes to global supply chains to protect the rights and welfare
of workers, according to the standards of social accountability 8000, the ILO and other world trade
stakeholders.
Originality/value - This study argues that the international and local instruments do not specifically
address the severe labour exploitation in Pakistan textile and garment industry. Therefore, the need arises to
develop a specific instrument to address the problem. In the absence of such an instrument, there is a
piecemeal approach by international and local bodies towards the regulation of labour exploitation.
Keywords Workplace, Supply chain, Exploitation, Social accountability,
Textile and garment industry
Paper type Research paper
Introduction
Exploitation has been a problem of uninterrupted debate in the supply chain literature. Most
of the existing studies are limited to features of developing country settings and global
retailers initiatives (Burnett and Mahon, 2001) and have made little effort to identify the
causes of labour exploitation. This study fills up the gap by drawing the evidence from an
emerging market, Pakistan, specifically in the textile and garment industry. This study
apprehended views of multilevel stakeholders from both public and private factories to
reveal the cause of exploitation. Based on the analytical lenses of institutional theory, the
study develops an understanding of how exploitation takes place from the pressure of
institutional actors. Systematically, a critical lens of inquiry is espoused to expose the veiled

Mechanisms of
labour
exploitation

1

Received 9 July 2018
Revised 20 November 2019
Accepted 10 February 2020

International Journal of Law and
M~anagemnent
Vol.62 No. 1,2020
pp. 1-21
©EmeraldPublishingLimcd
1754-243X
DOI 10.110S/IjLMA0Y-2018-0145

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